Archive for the ‘Kicking’ Category

‘Reflect’ on kicking with both feet

Monday, June 20th, 2011

Players who are able to kick with both feet are not born they are made and all went through a process and frustration of learning the skill with their ‘non – preferred’ foot.

Having seen so many players go though the angst of the awkwardness and ‘plastic’ feeling there are a couple of easy and perhaps not so obvious ways of accelerating this learning on the other side of your body. One of the common faults is the total focus on the foot and the extremity – the result is that the player (let’s say right footed) is for example kicking with his left foot – but with a right footed posture. In other words other than his foot the rest of his body is set to kick with the other leg i.e. right footed.

The fastest way to educate your body position is to stand in front of the mirror and get into the impact position for your stronger foot noting specifically hand positions, chest alignment, the direction of your hips the position on the navel. Then simply reverse the position checking those same positions – initially you will be amazed at some of the changes you will make once you become aware of the positions. Take time to observe as much detail as possible, and practice changing from stronger side to the weaker side.

Take time to do this – practice between weights exercises in the gym, the more you do this and the more accurate you are the better the foundation will be for your ‘other side’ .

Remember the more you can reeducate your body the easier your leg will perform.

Dave Alred

Kicking out of hand – Mechanics

Wednesday, February 17th, 2010

Kicking out of hand – the MechanicsRugby - Kicking Out of Hand

Everyone has kicked some sort of ball, whether it being in a small sided game of football, returning a ball on the beach to a group of kids or in a full sided match between two competitive teams. Most of these kicks have been from hand or even of the floor and after that breathtaking last gasp drop goal in the 2003 World Cup Final in Australia, another option has been added to armoury. The drop kick!

It is alright being able to do it once, but to do it consistently well, and with understanding is when the art of kicking comes to the fore. It is important that the models that are outlined here are there to guide and help, but it must be comprehended that it is an individual skill and should be adopted and developed with the individual in mind. Each individual will have different length levers, different placement techniques and will perform different kicks with a differing degree of success.

Before embarking on the various techniques and the mechanics of each kick, it is important to establish some fundamental principles that form the foundation of all types of kicks, whether it is off the floor or out of hand. It is essential that there is some comprehension of these principles initially, because as development takes place, being remedial or advanced, it can cause vast damage if not corrected properly. I see coaches rectifying a technique with the wrong intervention, because they have not understood the principles of the kicking action!

These principles for me are:

FLOW/RHYTHM:

The bases of all kicking actions! Any sport relies on rhythm or a basic flow to it skill movement. Some examples are: Golf with the swing, cricket with bowling, basketball with its free throw shots and tennis with its serve.

It is the ability to control the sequence of the body action and place them in order to maximise technique. If you where to pick up a stone and throw it, you would not stop at each point of the movement. Each point signifies the movement of the next and initiates a continuous action that becomes one smooth sequence with no breaks between the mini actions contained within. Thus, in simple kicking terms, a tall body will initiate the hips, which then initiate the thigh that initiates the knee that initiates the ankle that initiates the foot through the ball. To the naked eye it may be hard to spot when done well, but when down badly, you will be able to see when two body parts move out of line with each other. Remember here, that the sequence is to give us a balanced state when we make contact with the ball. The finished state should be towards the target with all our weight travelling towards that target.

One step drills are good for developing this or just kicking a round football against the wall in a repetitive nature.

POSTURE:

Simply for me, this is just about being tall,  keeping the upper body as elongated as possible for as long as possible throughout the kicking action.

By keeping the head up and the spine straight, it will allow greater flexibility of the lower back and gain greater movement in the hamstrings. Also, by stretching the body to its tallest position (power band) before contact with the ball will create greater power without compromising the technique or the rhythm of it. You hear in golf, ‘he/she was too quick’, thus the movement or rhythm has been forced.

As an example stand up and bring you head over your chest and bend the back. Now try and lift your kicking leg off the floor straight, and see how high you can get it.

Now, with the head held up and back straight(tall), pulling up rather than pushing up, now try and lift your leg up straight.

Experience the difference??

Thus by being taller, the mechanics are greater and allows free movement when kicking.

Rugby - Kicking Placement

PLACEMENT:

This is where the ball is placed in relation to the body in order to maximise the kicking action. Place is the word I often used and is misinterpreted when it comes to the kicking action. Other words used are drop, throw and roll the ball out, but all these will, if executed correctly give different positions for which the ball can be kicked.

Place mean PLACE! The ball has to be in the same shape when it leaves the hands to when the ball makes contact with the foot. Any distortion will not allow clean strike through the ball and thus not an effective kick. It is the same when kicking off the floor, there has to be an optimum position that allows the foot to travel through the ball cleanly and straight to target.

Again, this will depend on the type of kick and the bio-mechanics of the individual. Positioning of the ball and shape of it, nose up or nose down, or high or low trajectory will determine the position on contact.

Ideally, the sequence with good rhythm should allow us to place the ball consistently in the kicking cycle that will allow the kicking foot to make a sound contact in the right contact zone and in the right line.

CONTACT:

Thus, so far, we have good understanding of rhythm, tall posture that allows a good power band (described later) and consistent placement technique. We now need to comprehend the notion of contact and what we want to achieve form a sound technique.

The foot has to be locked at the ankle making a rigid club head that is going to strike through the ball in a straight line. The point of contact on the foot should be at the top; this is the hard bony knuckle that sticks out. This is solid and gives a hard surface to make contact with the ball. In relation to the body, the ball and the foot should just meet after the kicking leg has passed the non- kicking leg (plant leg). The knee on impact locks out and then produces a long swing through the ball. It is important that the non – kicking leg keeps driving towards target with the studs finishing high and facing forward. The knee flexion before contact will generate speed and though the ball.

Again, the placement should dictate where the contact is made in relation to the body, but the point on the foot does not change.

The shape of the ball on contact will change for different types of kick.

FOLLOW THROUGH:

This is simply the mechanics of the foot and body releasing towards target during the final stages of the kicking action and after the foot has finished contact with the ball.

Releasing is the term I describe the motion of the body and non – kicking foot lifting off the ground and travelling towards the target of the kick. The non – kicking foot must remain in contact with the floor whilst the action (sequence) is taking place to maintain strength, stability and balance. However, this will slightly change when the creative kicks are introduced.

SUMMARY:

RHYTHM/FLOW

POSTURE

PLACEMENT

CONTACT

FOLLOW THROUGH.

This is the bases of all kicking action and time should be spent understanding these before embarking on any kicking programme.

The drop punt or the End over end kick.

Kicking Clinic

Tuesday, February 16th, 2010

Kicking ClinicsRugby - Kicking Clinic

KICKING IS THE BEST WAY TO
GIVE AWAY POSSESSION OF THE BALL

Not Kicking

Experience tells us that more tries are conceded from “gift” kicks to the opposition backs in this circumstance than for almost any other reason.
Compared with making a hurried kick which even if it finds touch gives away possession, taking the tackle, protecting the ball and setting up a second phase must be a better outcome both tactically and strategically. Take into account the possibility of having your kick charged down and losing 5 or 7 points.
But what are the alternatives? If you’re deep in your own 22 and they’re bearing down on you, you can’t just allow yourself to be tackled with the ball, can you? In a word, YES. The great temptation to simply kick the ball away when under pressure must be resisted. Think what you have lost!

  • Possession
  • Territory
  • Initiative
  • Psychological advantage

What have you gained?…………………NOTHING except a breather!

Successful kicking is very difficult.  It is not difficult to kick a rugby ball, far from it. Almost any player can do it and most of them try even in the most  bizarre  circumstances. But it’s difficult to decide when to kick and it’s difficult to do it well. If it’s done at the wrong time and if it’s not done well more often than not the outcome is costly, either in points or in territory.
Penalties aside, the guidelines for when to kick are difficult to define. It is clear that never making any tactical kicks is an extreme option and one that most sides would be unable to sustain, however if the kickers and decision makers on the pitch are coached on the factors which define the decision to kick and understand them based on practice under pressure, then you will undoubtedly create a more successful side. A number of factors must be weighed before the decision is taken. These include: Probability of regaining possession; Momentum; Specific tactical objectives; Match time and Score; and Field and Weather Conditions. The importance of each of these specific situations changes as the game progresses.

Probability of regaining Possession

  1. Kick behind opposing 15 (and/or wings) with a determined and organized follow-up which at worst should force a line-out with your throw. Probability: 75%
  2. Grubber into space behind fast up defence with at least two attackers available to recover the ball. Probability: 70%
  3. High Ball behind the defence into one of the opposition danger areas (just outside their 22 in the middle of the field or close enough to the posts that a clean catch is unlikely) with a determined and organized follow-up should force a line-out with your throw in the first instance, or a scrum 5m in the second. Probability: 60%
  4. Box kick from scrum near the touchline or line-out where a necessarily disorganized follow-up still has a good chance of forcing touch. Probability 50%
  5. Chip-and-chase. Probability 30%
  6. Kick to touch. There is the rare but definite place for a pressure-relieving kick to touch to e.g. to break a defensive cycle but otherwise the value of every kick must be judged very harshly and only in terms of the actual benefit gained — if any. Probability 10%

Momentum

Maintenance and re-establishment of momentum are critical aspects of play. If every kick were to be measured only against its likelihood of increasing or decreasing momentum there would be very few kicks taken. Grubbers and chip-and-chases are the only kicks that maintain momentum if they are successful. All others more or less reduce it.

Specific tactical objectives

The wind is swirling, the rain is horizontal and you wonder if the opposing 15 really wants to be out there. If the game is in its 1st quarter it may be worth finding out.
The concept of “playing the game in their half” does seem, on the face of it, to have merit but in a short term/tactical sense rather than a strategic one.

Match time and Score

Leading by 10 with two minutes on the clock? Kick the ball into the river.
Seriously, assuming you are observing not only the letter but also the spirit of all the Laws of the Game it is still true that nobody ever said you are also supposed to give the opposition any advantage. The spirit of rugby is basically “no quarter given, none expected” and how you use your time in possession of the ball is a measure of your determination to win.

Field and Weather Conditions

How you use any natural advantage provided by the weather or the field conditions is a measure of your ability to play the game. You’re playing down the slope with the wind behind you? If your side can fulfil your dedication to open rugby, play and run with the wind at your back until you score. However, if they are not that confident and or haven’t the conditioning to play that kind of game use the elements to give you field advantage. Remember don’t kick the ball into touch in their 22m if the wind is against them let them struggle to kick it back to you and take the lineout in the red zone.

Kicking in defence

If kicking successfully without pressure is difficult kicking successfully under pressure must be regarded as effectively impossible! If you must kick in defence attempts must be made to reduce the pressure on the kicker. To do this the kicker must be given space, which means finding a way to keep the opposition on their side of the gain line while you recycle the ball and make the kick. This requires a ruck/maul and a successful ruck/maul requires at least three or four of your players so once again support is crucial.

Kicking for touch

The first objective of touch kicking is to find touch. Gaining field position comes a very poor second and not finding touch, the third possible outcome, is nothing short of a disaster except in one special circumstance, the kick into the corner of the field. Here failing to make touch can be turned to advantage because the options remaining to the defence are considerably reduced. This does not mean that you should kick wildly into the corner at every opportunity because there are other pitfalls. e.g. kicking too long results in a scrum back. However one of the key points of the evening will focus on not how long you can kick the ball but how accurately.

Penalties: Kicking for Points

Take the points that are offered unless there is a VERY, VERY compelling reason not to.

The exception to the rule…?
One exception to this rule to take the points under all circumstances arises when you are awarded a kickable penalty in the first few minutes of a game.
When this happens the chances are that this penalty is to some extent at least your reward for an aggressive start and it may be worth maintaining the momentum of this start by kicking for the corner with a view to scoring 7 points rather than 3.
If do you score the try well and good, if you don’t not much is lost; you still have lots of time and you have given the opposition a very clear indication of your aggressive intentions. Worth considering!

It goes without saying that selecting a reliable goal kicker is crucial but what is not so obvious is that your goal-kicker must be nurtured and coached (Reliable means at least 8 out of 10 within the 22m area)
There has been a lot of emphasis recently on coaching the kicker to the extent that many of the national unions and premiership clubs have a coach who does little else. The problem is that it has yet to be proved to me that you can “manufacture” a successful place kicker. What you can do, however, is to improve the performance of players who have already demonstrated ability and, perhaps more important, enthusiasm for the task. 10 fully concentrated kicks from no further out than the 22 and no wider than the 15m line will do more to improve your kicker’s success than half-a-dozen massive boots from the half-way line. Many kickers, especially beginners and junior players, gain great benefits from the standard practice of using the goal line and attempting to hit the single post. This method provides instant feed-back. Again, the objective should be to work on technique, not distance. Using the angle of the posts within the 22m area to the left and right and narrowing it down to increase the pressure on your kickers technique may be a more realistic practice and create success. Be realistic, how many of us can actually hit a 4” target from 20 m away unless we drove our car at it!

Penalties: Kicking for Touch

A penalty kicked square into touch keeping the throw-in is fifty times more valuable than a 75m bullet caught in-field that sets up a counterattack and puts the kicking team back on the defensive.
A safe and efficient happy medium between these two extremes can usually be found by even the most mediocre kicker. Note: if you use penalty kicks to touch as a good opportunity for team conferences the kicker not finding touch can cause a certain amount of grief to your defensive capability

Having kicked to touch a successful line-out is now crucial if you are to maintain momentum so make sure that you select your best option and that the entire pack is on board. The pack will have had a few seconds to prepare so there should be no need for a call. Trot up, throw in and move forward.

Restarts

Aim always to retrieve the ball either from left, centre, or right, aimed kicks…practice them in training, kickers and catchers don’t just magically tie up to retain possession, we accept too much to our detriment as coaches that the opposition are going to recover the ball from our kick off and think negatively. Aim for your kicker to achieve 4 seconds hang time for the ball in the air.

Restarts: 22 drop-out

Justification for a short drop-out (except for the once-in-a -while chance where the ball can be kicked and retrieved by the kicker who can then put men away on the open side) is limited. Giving the opposition a fair chance to acquire the ball on your 22 makes absolutely no sense. There are two major 22 drop-out options to consider: kick long into the open side or long into the box (behind the mass of their forwards) but in either case into a place where the defence isn’t. Even if the wind is squarely in your teeth it should be possible to put the ball behind the mass of defenders.

Of these the box approach is by far the safest unless defenders are very sparse on the open side. Whichever is chosen the kick must be taken without any hesitation, and
a) Getting the ball from the touch down in goal immediately to the kicker should be a crucial priority. Nothing in the Laws says the kick has to be taken on the 22 and the change in the Laws allows for members of the kicking team to be in front of the kicker as long as the kicker or another player puts his team on-side. Thus it makes sense to begin the run-up to the kick well behind the 22 and actually kick say 5m behind it to make sure the kick is not charged down at the line.
b) Getting wingers/flankers into position to chase should be a second priority and getting the rest of the team up in a defensive line the next. 8 and 9  should be slightly behind to cover the chip and 15 plus a wing in position to field the longer return.

The kick must be chased with determination by tacklers who know what is expected and who, if they can’t initiate an immediate turnover, must with your defensive line in place shut down the counter-attack e.g. by forcing a clearance to touch

A team may use open field kicking to get itself out of a difficulty once or twice a game but is very, very unlikely to kick itself into a victory.

Rugby - Tactical Kicking

Tactical Kicking

Drop-Goal

The drop-goal is a tactic that can salvage a static position and can combat loss of momentum. Obviously, it can only be used within range of the posts but if you have a kicker of average or better than average ability (who is prepared to do the practice necessary!) it can be a very potent tactic in situations where you face a poised, well-organized defence dedicated to making sure that you are receiving only slow ball. If you can work the ball into the middle of the field by phased play then even slow ball from the ruck with your kicker in the pocket should provide the opportunity to score points and keep the board ticking over.

Successful drop-goals often surprise the defence (and always surprise the spectators) and for this reason alone it may be worth having a go even if conditions are not perfect. Even an unsuccessful attempt can be useful since there is always the chance of a defensive error which can be turned to advantage. If it results in the opposition dropping-out at least you will hopefully regain possession. It goes without saying that, as always, communication of your intention to the team is crucial not only in setting-up the attempt but in making sure that the chase follows up.

Up-and-under in open play

The difficulty of placing a high into a dangerous position — as opposed to simply banging it in the air and hoping one’s teammates will somehow recover it — reduces the effectiveness of this tactic. An up-and-under that falls short immediately stalls the attack even if the ball is recovered. One that is too far is simply an invitation to the opposition to counter-attack since no pressure can be brought to support it or to pressure the receivers. However, if it is well-placed to land in a danger zone AND your intention has been communicated it can be a decisive tactic in regaining momentum even given the risks.

Box Kick

Like the bomb the box kick is a potent tactic if it is accurate both for distance and position. The kicker’s team must  expect it as part of a rehearsed move and kick chase pattern. It has the advantage of being made from close to the off-side line and is particularly useful in pressure situations. It is one of the ways to retain possession of the ball without accepting the kick to touch from defence surrendering the ball

Wipers

The wiper kick (diagonally into the space behind the open-side wing) is a way to set up a full-back/wing counterattack for your opposition exactly in the part of the field where your team has least defence. However, properly executed it turns the wing and stands a good chance of setting-up a turnover. There are various ways to set-up a wiper. Many teams use at least one phase after the set-piece to concentrate or at least fix the opposition forwards. Another tactic is for 12 to make the kick. This has the effect of triggering the opposition’s back defence and potentially opening a few more yards of space. The open-side wing’s task is both to put his team onside and to chase the kick so he must be alive to the tactic.

Grubber

Of all open field kicks the grubber kick is, strangely enough, the most valuable and useful tactic ” The grubber is: a) relatively easy to execute, even at pace, b) allows considerable tactical variation e.g. vector, distance, c) makes space rather than relinquishes it, and d) where the “chip and chase” always requires the lucky bounce of an notoriously eccentric ball for success the grubber kicked end-over-end more often than not is gatherable by the attack. Even if it’s covered it requires the covering defender to go down to field it and this is worth at least a yard to the kicker/tackler. On the whole the grubber is likely to be recovered 70% of the time — i.e. on a par with the normal odds of a competent back beating his man given space.

Chip and chase

This kick must be practiced to a fine art to make it worthy of mention. There are a few spectacular chip and chase tries Jonny Wilkinson Jeremy Guscott, David Humphries, to name a hallowed group. Care must be taken to do the skill under pressure from a defender and to watch the ball at all times. It is generally used as a cop out from an attacker who has run out of ideas.

Box Kick

Wednesday, November 18th, 2009

Box KickRugby - Box Kick

A box kick is a high over-the-shoulder kick used mostly by scrum-halves in tight attacking or defensive situations.

Usually taken from a scrum or a line-out on the blindside, or short side, of the pitch a big advantage of using a box kick is that it puts the rest of your team mates onside.

The scrum-half aims to place the ball behind the opposition forwards and isolate the opposing winger or fullback- with his own wingers chasing hard there is a great opportunity for a turnover.

Every team and 90% of scrum-halves will use the box kick through out the game.

Coming into the game at present is a new tactic regarding the box kick, instead of executing the traditional kick (high & long), teams are starting to employ the ‘dink box.’ This is a shorter kick that travels over the ruck into space in between the opposing wingers- it has had very good success for the kicking side and as always keeps the opposition guessing.

Drop Kick

Saturday, October 24th, 2009

Drop KickRugby - Drop Kick

A drop kick is used for the kick-off and restarts and to score a drop goal.  It involves dropping a ball and then kicking it when it bounces off the ground.

Drop kicks are mandatory:

  • From the centre spot to start a half (a kick-off)
  • From the centre spot to restart the game after points have been scored
  • To restart play from the 22-metre line (called a drop-out) after the ball is touched down or made dead in the in-goal area by the defending team when the attacking team kicked or took the ball into the in-goal area
  • To score a field goal or drop goal (or dropped goal) in open play, which is worth three points.

Drop kicks are optional:

  • For a conversion kick after a try has been scored, but this is rare, as place kicks are generally used for the conversion
  • For a penalty kick to score a penalty goal, but this is rare, as place kicks are generally used
  • When kicking for touch (the sideline) from a penalty, although the option of a punt kick is usually taken instead.

Additionally, in rugby sevens, the drop kick is used for all conversion attempts which must be taken within 40 seconds of the try being scored.

Step 1

When dropping the ball put your hands either side of the ball and keep contact until the last moment.

Step 2

Begin with your chest 45 degrees angle to the target.  Drop the ball so that it lands dead upright. It’s imperative that you strike the ball exactly the moment it connects with ground.

Step 3

Concentrate on swinging your foot through the line of the ball and follow through with your body weight in the direction you want the ball to go.

Step 4

For restarts it different in that you let the ball bounce higher so that you can get your whole foot underneath and kick the ball higher into the air to make it easier for your chasers.

Chip Kick

Saturday, October 24th, 2009

Chip Kick in RugbyRugby - Chip Kick

The chip kick is an attacking weapon used to unlock solid defences, find space, keep the opposition guessing and ultimately to score tries.

A chip kick is used to kick just over the top of an advancing defence, when the kicker sees space behind the defence. Either the kicker or the chasing players from behind the kicker can attempt to either catch the kick before the ball hits the ground or as it hits the ground wait for the ball to bounce up.

You can prefect the chip so that you can make the ball bounce backwards into your hands as it hits the ground.

How to do a chip kick

Step 1

Hold the ball straight out in front of you, with the tips pointing up and down. You can also hold it slightly towards the side, over your kicking foot.

Step 2

Guide the ball onto you foot. With your foot pointing upwards kick the ball up and forwards towards the sky.

Step 3

Try and catch the ball before it bounces but if not wait until it bounces up waist high before regaining the ball.

Step 4

Kick through rather than at the ball, this will give you a far greater sense of direction and distance.

The kick concludes with a high follow-through, with the foot above head height. The kicking leg should remain straight, and the toes pointed.

Basic Drill- Spiral Kick to Partner

  • Divide the group into pairs, one football per pair.
  • Mark out a channel for each pair, who face each other approximately 10m apart
  • Each player in turn spiral kicks the ball to their partner.
  • To kick with the right leg take the first step with the left leg and vice versa.
  • It may be necessary to group children on the basis of ability.
  • To increase the difficulty of the drill, increase the distance the players are required to kick the ball.

Grubber Kick

Saturday, October 24th, 2009

Grubber KickRugby - Grubber Kick

The grubber is the most accrurate kick in rugby. It’s a kick that travellers end over end along the ground that will pop up near the end of it’s motion making it easier to catch.

The rugby grubber kick is an attacking kick designed to put the ball behind the defence during attacking play with the intent to recollect the ball immediately. A well executed grubber kick will typically roll and bounce along the ground making it both difficult for the defence to get a hold of initially, but easier for the kicker himself or an oncoming teammate to collect.

It is also used to find touch during open play when the team in possession is outside their own 22m  and want the game to restart with a set piece or maybe the attacking team just want to slow down the game.

How to do a Grubber kick

Step 1

Hold the ball straight out in front of you, with the tips pointing up and down. You can also hold it slightly towards the side, over your kicking foot.

Step 2

Drop the ball straight down, over your dominant foot.

Step 3

Kick the top of the ball just before it hits the ground. Use the top or inside of your foot (your toe should be pointing to the ground). The ball should roll end-over-end, then skim the ground, skipping and bouncing at low-to-medium heights along the ground.

Spiral Kick

Saturday, October 24th, 2009

Spiral KickRugby - Spiral Kick

The spiral kick is a kicking technique implemented to enhance the distance the ball is kicked.

The ball spins about its long axis instead of end over end (as the punt kick does), making the flight of the ball more aerodynamic and it is more difficult to catch

With extra distance, this type of kick is also more difficult to accurately judge depth.

If kicked correctly, the ball can travel up to 70 metres, while a punt kick will travel slightly less far. It depends much more on the kicking ability of the kicker, as opposed to the type of kick used, as to determine how far a ball will travel.

When the ball spirals, it cuts through the air far more efficiently than an end-over-end ball. This is the same reason a spin pass tends to go further and faster than a normal pass does. Timing, technique and tempo are of great importance when executing a spiral kick,

How to do a spiral kick

Step 1

Grip the ball (for right foot kicker) with the left hand forward towards the front of the ball and the right hand towards the rear. Hold the ball over your kicking foot.

Step 2

Guide the ball onto you foot. The angle at which the ball is placed across the foot is of great importance and an angle of 35 degrees produces the best results.

Step 3

Contact with ball is everything. A straightened foot is crucial for the success and the ball must be struck through the centre of gravity as it is angled across the foot.

Step 4

Kick through rather than at the ball, this will give you a far greater sense of direction and distance.

The kick concludes with a high follow-through, with the foot above head height. The kicking leg should remain straight, and the toes pointed.

Basic Drill- Spiral Kick to Partner

  • Divide the group into pairs, one football per pair.
  • Mark out a channel for each pair, who face each other approximately 10m apart
  • Each player in turn spiral kicks the ball to their partner.
  • To kick with the right leg take the first step with the left leg and vice versa.
  • It may be necessary to group children on the basis of ability.
  • To increase the difficulty of the drill, increase the distance the players are required to kick the ball.

Punt Kick

Saturday, October 24th, 2009

Punt Kick in RugbyRugby - Punt Kick

The punt is the most common kick used in rugby for distance and accuracy. Like a grubber kick it travels end over end not along the ground but instead through the air. Other major sports such as NFL, rugby league and aussie rules relay heavily on the use of this type of kicking to ultimately help them win games.

It is described as kicking the ball without the ball first hitting the ground. It is often used as defensive weapon to get the football out of your own half, when under pressure, to attain field position and shift the balance of momentum.

Many players also use this type of kick to find touch from a penalty, and to find space when attacking- e.g. a kick pass to the winger who is in space. To punt accurately and well, players need to have good balance and timing.

How to do a punt kick

Step 1

First, the kicker points the ball in the direction in which he wants the kick to go. The ball is held at waist height and at arm’s length away from the body. The ball is held at a 45° angle to the axis of the foot.

Step 2

Hold the ball over your kicking foot. When you release the ball guide it down with the hand of the opposite side of the kicking foot.

Step 3

Contact is made in the centre of the ball, with the toes pointed down, just above the boot laces with the ankle extended and the hard upper bridge of the foot to impart full power.

Step 4

The kick concludes with a high follow-through, with the foot above head height. The kicking leg should remain straight, and the toes pointed.

Basic Drill- Punt Kick to Partner

  • Divide the group into pairs, one football per pair.
  • Mark out a channel for each pair, who face each other approximately 10m apart
  • Each player in turn punt kicks the ball to their partner.
  • To kick with the right leg take the first step with the left leg and vice versa.
  • It may be necessary to group children on the basis of ability.
  • To increase the difficulty of the drill, increase the distance the players are required to kick the ball.

Drop Kick

Saturday, September 12th, 2009

Drop Kick

A Drop Kick in Rugby

A drop kick is used for the kick-off and restarts and to score a drop goal.  It involves dropping a ball and then kicking it when it bounces off the ground.

Drop kicks are mandatory:

From the centre spot to start a half (a kick-off)

From the centre spot to restart the game after points have been scored

To restart play from the 22-metre line (called a drop-out) after the ball is touched down or made dead in the in-goal area by the defending team when the attacking team kicked or took the ball into the in-goal area

To score a field goal or drop goal (or dropped goal) in open play, which is worth three points.

Drop kicks are optional:

For a conversion kick after a try has been scored, but this is rare, as place kicks are generally used for the conversion

For a penalty kick to score a penalty goal, but this is rare, as place kicks are generally used

When kicking for touch (the sideline) from a penalty, although the option of a punt kick is usually taken instead.

Additionally, in rugby sevens, the drop kick is used for all conversion attempts which must be taken within 40 seconds of the try being scored.

Step 1

When dropping the ball put your hands either side of the ball and keep contact until the last moment.

Step 2

Begin with your chest 45 degrees angle to the target.  Drop the ball so that it lands dead upright. It’s imperative that you strike the ball exactly the moment it connects with ground.

Step 3

Concentrate on swinging your foot through the line of the ball and follow through with your body weight in the direction you want the ball to go.

Step 4

For restarts it different in that you let the ball bounce higher so that you can get your whole foot underneath and kick the ball higher into the air to make it easier for your chasers.

rss to Rugby's best training siteArticle RSS and comments rss for Rugby's best training siteArticle Comments (RSS).

Theme By Cactus Slimming

Login issue